For the first time in the United States, regulators have given their approval for the sale of chicken made from animal cells, paving the way for two California companies, Upside Foods and Good Meat, to introduce “lab-grown” meat to restaurants and, eventually, supermarket shelves.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture has granted the necessary permissions to Upside Foods and Good Meat, companies that had been competing to become the first in the U.S. to offer meat that is not derived from slaughtered animals. This revolutionary form of meat, often referred to as “cell-cultivated” or “cultured” meat, is produced in laboratories rather than on traditional farms.

This development marks the beginning of a new era in meat production, with the aim of reducing harm to animals and mitigating the environmental impacts associated with livestock farming, such as land use, water consumption, and animal waste.

Josh Tetrick, co-founder and chief executive of Eat Just, the company that operates Good Meat, emphasized the potential benefits of this innovation: “Instead of all of that land and all of that water that’s used to feed all of these animals that are slaughtered, we can do it in a different way.”

Both companies have received federal approvals for inspections, which are necessary for selling meat and poultry in the U.S. This move comes after the U.S. Food and Drug Administration had already declared that products from both firms are safe for consumption. Additionally, Joinn Biologics, a manufacturing company collaborating with Good Meat, has also been cleared to produce these products.

Cultivated meat is grown in controlled environments, typically using cells sourced from living animals, fertilized eggs, or stored cell banks. Upside Foods produces large sheets of meat that can be shaped into various forms, such as chicken cutlets and sausages. Good Meat, which already offers cultivated meat in Singapore, turns chicken cells into a range of products, including cutlets, nuggets, shredded meat, and satays.

However, consumers should not expect to find cultivated chicken in U.S. grocery stores anytime soon. Currently, it is more expensive than conventionally farmed chicken and cannot be produced at the same scale. According to Ricardo San Martin, director of the Alt:Meat Lab at the University of California Berkeley, the initial rollout will be in exclusive restaurants, with Upside partnering with a San Francisco restaurant called Bar Crenn, and Good Meat serving dishes at a restaurant in Washington, D.C. run by chef Jose Andrés.

It’s worth noting that these products are not meat substitutes like the Impossible Burger or Beyond Meat, which are made from plant-based ingredients. Cultivated meat is derived from animal cells.

Globally, more than 150 companies are exploring cell-based meat production for various types of meat, including pork, lamb, fish, and beef, which is known to have significant environmental impacts.

Both Upside and Good Meat are taking different approaches to create their cultivated meat products. Upside selects cells from live animals that are likely to produce high-quality meat, while Good Meat uses a commercially available chicken cell line. These cells are then combined with a nutrient-rich mixture to facilitate growth in steel tanks called cultivators.

Despite initial skepticism, consumer acceptance is expected to grow as people become more familiar with the production process and taste the product. As Amy Chen, Upside’s chief operating officer, noted, “It is the meat that you’ve always known and loved.”

However, there are challenges ahead, including limited initial production capacity and high costs. It may take several years before these products become more widely available to consumers. Critics also raise concerns about accessibility and whether cultivated meat will remain a niche product primarily affordable to affluent individuals.

Josh Tetrick remains hopeful that alternative meat production methods can provide a more sustainable and accessible option for consumers while preserving the enjoyment of traditional meat dishes.\